Every 34mph I ski with uses A. On B or C they don't feel as if they're able to ride free of the boat.

on my boat i havnt touched that setting. I believe it is on B.

I find that i am easily able to go between ZO and PP on that setting but i also havnt tried any others

you could get a little bit softer pull by dropping in a -KX. I dont know much about how the PX works but you will need a switch for that. Adding that may help with it but is it worth the money?

Joe, 
I won't be much help on the zero off, but I did just get off your lake and it was perfect tonight.  Even with the wind, it was still glass.  I'm trying out a new ski and I need to get with you to help set it up for me.  Good luck in the tourney and let me know how it goes!!  --  Micah

I'm attaching an email that Freddy Krueger(ZO rep) sent to Bob Mayhew(one of our chief drivers and MC promo team in the Houston area) this week.

-Shane H

<snip>
Hi All

I have a question. Which slalom mode is the most aggressive and which is the softest A,B or C ?  It works a little different with ZO than PP, but let me see if I can make it make sense.  In PP we are used to having a "KX" value that makes the pull stronger or weaker.  If you go to "+" the boat gets stronger "-" and the boat gets weaker.  With Zero Off the letter "B" is comparable to "normal" in PP.  And what that means is that if you could map the way the gain settings come on the skier off the buoy and then how they release the skier into the ball, the graph would look like a "bell curve".  So the boat will release the skier into the buoy with the same intensity it picks the skier up off the ball.

   

The letter "A" is often referred to as the more aggressive pull setting, but in reality the "A" setting is more aggressive off the buoy when you start your pull, but will release you into the buoy the same way as the letter "B".



The letter "C" is exactly the opposite of letter "A".  So letter "C" will pick you up off the buoy the same as letter "B", but will release you more aggressively into the buoy so you feel more free into the ball.



Now the obvious question is, "why not just do stronger or weaker"?  The reason for this is because the system is based on speed and not on an RPM pull just going stronger or weaker with the gain settings didn't seem to fit well with the athletes doing the early testing.  In fact it was a unanimous decision to go with the system as it currently is based.  Later we found that the reason this works is because different skiers want to get to different widths on the boat and these 3 settings are most likely to allow the skier to move to different places on the boat.

 

Where should you start?  Start with the letter "B" and then try "A", last try "C".  Most of the pro skiers I am finding like either "B" or "A", but we have the occasional "C". 



For 2008 the gain setting for A,B, and C are lower than they were for 2007 and thus the pull is more forgiving and more comparable to what we are all used to.  I think those of you who tried ZO last year and have tried it again with the new gains, will really appreciate the improvements.



The NIGHTMARE.
<snip>

Last edited by 2gofaster (Wed, Jun 11, 2008 12:51 PM)

http://www.thewaterskiforum.com/cgi-bin … read=53012

I wouldn't dig to deep into this thread, the meat is in this post.
The graphs to a pretty good job of conveying what the settings do.



For me, the quickest way to understand the 1,2,3 setting is with a little bit of math.
Throttle is applied along a power function. The area under the curve is constant, but you
can change the shape of the cuve with 1,2,3. Setting 1 gives you the lowest maximum and the
extremes push outward: you will get the smallest ammount of throttle applied over a longer time).
Setting 3 gives you the highest maximum and the extremes pull in: you will get the largest ammount
of throttle applied over a shorter period of time.