2008 66" RS-1 Settings / Pro Ski Coach Water Ski Forum

ChrisRossi · #1 Fri, Jul 11, 2008 2:21 PM

Double Boot
28 1/2"
16 1/2"
2.505
6.835
0.749
9 degrees

Rear Toe Plate
28 5/8"
2.505
6.830
0.755
9 degrees

JP · #2 Sat, Aug 2, 2008 12:55 AM

sick numbers, sick riding ski, sick graphics!!!

The only change i made to these is pushed the front boot forward about 1/8" to make it a little more stable in the preturn. but other than that i couldnt ask for more!

ChrisRossi · #3 Sat, Aug 2, 2008 11:58 AM

Glad to hear they rip for you!

JP · #4 Mon, Aug 4, 2008 1:48 AM

is there a way that i might be able to make it turn a little better on my off side and not lose too much on my onside? im finding that to get it to turn 2, 4 that i really need to push the tip and with any roll to the water the tail is blowing out.

ChrisRossi · #5 Mon, Aug 4, 2008 2:43 AM

Try 6.840 length.

JP · #6 Sat, Aug 9, 2008 1:48 AM

Wade got it dialed in PERFECT. It ends up my measuring wasnt very good and its actually pretty close to your origional numbers. are you going to make it up to new england at all this year Chris?

Andyb · #7 Thu, Aug 14, 2008 9:26 PM

Your measurements for the RTP 28 5/8, I am using a front draft boot which is difficult to measure any suggestions ? I can measure where my heel is but guess if I need to measure from the rubber.

ChrisRossi · #8 Tue, Aug 19, 2008 11:36 AM

I would measure to the rubber and go ski it. Post in the forum what you are feeling and we can help you dial it in.

Jacke · #9 Fri, Aug 22, 2008 8:35 PM

I am demoing a 66 RS-1 with double RS-1 bindings. The first set when I was takin it easy, the ski was great, the biggest adnvantage compared to my 04 Monza was the amazing off side. However, when I started to push the ski in the turns the ski hooked up and caused bodycrushes. I have been told the RS-1 works best if the skier is patient and let the ski finish the turns. However, I tend to tend to push the ski when I am late or when I did not have the best pre turn. Maybe is it not the ski for me, but I reaaly liked what I feeled the first passes so I want to give the ski a honest shot.

I figured I should start with the bindings, how do you messaure the distance on the RS-1 binding?
Do you have any others tips, besides not pushing the ski, that it will make it more forgiving when being pushed? I ski into 32 off 36mp/h

Last edited by Jacke (Fri, Aug 22, 2008 10:03 PM)

2gofaster · #10 Fri, Aug 22, 2008 9:29 PM

Jacke, Eddie Roberts at Radar told me to measure to the bottom row of stitching on the RS1 boots.

Can you describe what you mean when you say "hooked up"? Is the tip down too much causing you to have too much angle and ski in the water? Or is the tip coming up and stopping the ski? Tell us where you have the boots mounted and how the fin is set up if you don't mind.

Jacke · #11 Fri, Aug 22, 2008 10:10 PM

Ok, thanks. If I meassure like that my rear binding is at 16.85"
I converts from metrics so the number may not be 100% but I give it a try.
2.46
6.78
0.807
When pushing, I felt the ski overturned, making me brake at the waist. Thinking about it, it probably is the tip coming up.
any suggestions?

2gofaster · #12 Fri, Aug 22, 2008 10:26 PM

Jacke, if you look at your numbers you have a pretty long distance from tail. Are you measuring that with the flat of the heads of the caliper or the needle?

Compare that to Chris's numbers above. He's using the flat of the heads, I believe. If it is the tip coming up, moving the fin backwards while keeping those same depth and length numbers will bring the tip down. The more you bring it down, the more the ski will go from a sharp turn to an arcing turn. So you're trick is finding a middle ground that you're comfortable with. I'm guessing that when it overturns and the tip rises, you lose all speed?. Something to try is to split the difference between where you are now at .807 and Chris's number at .749 (which would be about .778 dft) and see if you feel an improvement.

Jacke · #13 Sat, Aug 23, 2008 6:40 AM

Thanks Shane.
I meausser with the needle, measuring with the flat of the head I got it to 0.45, so I'm thinking maybe my caliper follows european standard or something since the numbers differ so much.
What do you think of the binding placement?

WadeWilliams · #14 Sat, Aug 23, 2008 2:35 PM

the rs1 is mostly designed as a ski that you ride, not push. If you are pushig the ski through your turns, I would say that you might fin a different ski much more forgiving. This is why it felt great first set when you just felt it out. This is definitely a more efficient way to ski, and the radar will bring you tone next level if you choose to learn the style that it wants you to ride.

The connelly, radar, and ho are all skis that will work better with out pushing. Read some of the articles on this site to learn more about turning without the push. Try www.proskicoach.com/articles and read tip to rip and sustainable angle first.

Jacke · #15 Sat, Aug 23, 2008 5:47 PM

Wade, thanks for the response.
What do you think of the boot placement and the numbers? I really wants to learn to ski more effeciency but on the other hand, I don't want a ski that punish me.
I come from a Monza 04 and before that I rode a F1. They might not be the easiest skis to ride, but the RS-1 was more difficult but I will give a couple of more sets.
Even if the RS-1 is not supposed to be pushed, maybe there is some setting that makes the ski not so responsive on pushing it. I will read your articles, I have read them before, I will do it again.

ChrisRossi · #16 Mon, Aug 25, 2008 7:22 AM

Jacke,
Those fin measurements seem pretty far away from stock numbers. The fin being that shallow is what you are feeling in the unable to push on the ski area you described. Can you read my definitive fin measuring article and put the fin to my suggested numbers? I think you will be much happier with the results!